Fashion moves in circles, they say, and I myself am aware that. What was once the highlight of your wardrobe might have later lost its shine but it’s pretty much expected that you’ll be seeing it years after rocking the runway and the streets. This is something I consider to be fairly encouraging, healthy, environmentally and financially responsible and absolutely creative. You get to re-invent fashion, whether it be as a designer or a consumer that has the chance to rework a piece of theirs. This is partially the reason why it didn’t feel as strange to me, seeing all these 00’s references in Cavalli’s recent collection, yet that very same was strong enough a factor to leave me unsatisfied.
To begin with, the show does the main essence of fashion right; it stands out. You can easily spot a Roberto Cavalli design among all the others debuted in AW18/19 fashion week and that I find powerful. The models walk fiercely in luxurious textiles, the kinds that Cavalli loves; shiny satin, gradient chiffon, textured leather and animal prints – staple of Cavalli’s identity. We see a pinch of luscious ultra violet, just like Pantone crowned as color of the year 2018, and a vicious kind of black, also a signature of the Italian finesse we have been raised to admire. There are western influences in the prints mixed, a small and subtle streetwear addition and, in a whole, the natural confident air a Cavalli woman and man breathes, but all of these get suspended by one small and simple detail.
As the show came to an end, I am left with the feeling that all possible innovation is torn away from it. In a certain way, it has a sexual energy to it, the ability to stand taller than multiple other lines, just like mentioned above. There is not a single leather piece presented that any fashion freak would not crave. However, it doesn’t steer further away from what we have already seen from the house. Asymmetric lengths, leading in beautiful, voluminous folds, black or animal printed gowns, that have all kinds of potential in them until they get crippled by a played-out cut-out detail. A big part of the line gets somehow negotiable. Yes, who didn’t love the 00’s? I mean besides America surviving George Bush and Britney Spears’ career downfall. It’s a great achievement for a brand of such a range to keep its character throughout the years, but it’s far from not compromising the novelty of its ways.
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