I kept wondering if I have gotten to feel less ecstatic season by season. I thought “maybe I’m being too harsh, I mean, what am I expecting to see?”.
And then, it happened. Marc Jacobs’ designs made me gasp in sight.
Jacobs in vastly known for his love of both extremity and femininity. He’s always had the weirdest of ways to portray his support of individuality, something that no less than often brings his work at stake.
Looking at this collection, the first word that crosses my mind is masculine. Apple shaped designs. Strong, 50’s trench coat style inspired shoulders. Pads all over the place. Pads pads pads. And colors! So many and so intense, you end up losing yourself in a rainbow vortex.
The runway is flooding in mystery – you can barely spot the model in each outfit, and it’s a good approach; it leaves you no choice than to only stare at the already impressive work the house has done. The eye paralyzes; what does one focus their attention on? The collection is mostly a game of volume and shapes – looks that create the illusion of a bold upper body with a sometimes-intensified waistline, throwing us back in the 40’s-50’s. Alongside the floor licking scarves stand huge bow and flower motifs made of shiny chiffon, letting the collection steer away from ultimate masculinity. Jacobs’ canvas are casual winter staples such as leather, patent leather, plain or mohair wool and fur, yet you feel like you stand before the so far unseen. There is even a peak of reworked check patterns and not just the glen plaid we’re used to seeing for this season. He keeps it retro from head to toe, picking shoes that match the decades that seem to have inspired him.
A friend of mine called this line “clownish”.
I call it genius.
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